Sport 6/16/07

Stealing pics again: we totally didn't climb this

I have a confession to make, I’ve been climbing and not posting. We drive to the rock, walk to the top, build an anchor and then basically yuk it up, on and off the wall. While I’m hooked on climbing, I just haven’t been inspired to write a trip report that sounds like: “and he moved his right arm then his left foot and … he did it again and again…” You get my point but on Saturday Igor, Doogie, Ali and I went to Rumney and I am now inspired to write a TR about climbing.

Friday afternoon, a few minutes before 5 we all get a text message from Igor asking if we wanted to go to Rumney the next day. (Originally Igor was going to Maine and being that he is the only one among us with quick draws or webbing that meant none of us were going anywhere.) We all said yes, Doogie and Ali went out and bought harnesses and we all met at 6am and headed back to, where else… NH!

12 hours of this and see how your neck feels

We hit the parking lot at 8ish and reached the Parking Lot Wall a few minutes later. Igor is the only experienced climber among us and was forced to lead the first few climbs because none of us had climbed sport (heads up - scroll down on these links until you see the term)before. So Igor set us up on a 5.7 warm up and then we moved on down the same wall to another 5.7 and a 5.9. The sun and people were coming out in force and we ready to take a hike (about 30 minutes) to the Hinterlands, where we could find a little more space.

not one of us but we did climb this

Before we left we had to clean our routes and take down our ropes. This was my first experience cleaning or doing anything technical related to climbing! After that experience I reiterated to Igor that I would be stoked if he would teach me how to lead and of course let me borrow his gear, it’s hard to lead without gear (note to self – get rich – buy gear/buy gear - go further into debt!).

Igor on the first climb

We ate lunch then started hiking up to the Hinterlands. Approaching the shark fin shaped rock we were are all excited to be getting on such a tall climb with what looked like the possibility of awesome views and a relatively small group of climbers around us. Igor referenced his guide book, (note to self – kill Igor take all of his stuff – I mean buy guide books) set his pack down, pointed to a climb called ‘cold feet’ and told me that I should be able to lead it! I wasn’t really expecting him to actually let me lead but I was stoked to have the opportunity! It was a 5.7 and relatively simple but my nerves were going crazy all the way until I clipped into the anchor! My first lead and nobody died! At the top I was so worried about securing the rope that I never took my eyes off the rock and missed the great views.

I shrunk

After that Igor redpointed a 5.10a called ‘chicken parts’, which was awesome to watch. This gave Doogie and I a shot at a climb well over our heads but because it started to rain on us we didn’t really get to give it our all and totally believe that we could get over the crux if we had a little more time!

So the rain came down while we cleaned up our gear and got ready to head back to Boston but as we finally got everything in order the rain stopped. The climb we were looking at, ‘Dolt’, opened up and we unpacked our gear and watched Igor nail another one. Dolt is 30 meters and a ton of fun. It has a crux about 10 feet up and another one 20 feet from the top (which I decided to avoid by climbing to the right – ok I cheated but one crux is enough and I needed to clean the route so Igor didn’t have to climb it again) . After the second crux there is 20 feet left but it’s tiring and tough which made reaching the top even more enjoyable. The view was awesome but being 30 meters up it was hard to talk to the people at the base and when I said “someone left webbing up here!” no one heard me and I just left it up there. It turned out that Igor had forgotten it while he was building the anchor and I should have brought it down with me (sorry bud).

Igor - with Doogie spotting

I was able to lead another climb near dolt and after that we headed back down to the area near the car via Waimea (a beautiful, wave looking slab of rock – and as we decided, something that we wouldn’t be able to climb for years – 5.11 and up) the 5.8 crag (mostly 5.9 or harder climbs oddly enough) where we met up with (randomly) some other MITOCers (they are the legit climbers not BC skiers who are looking for things to do – Igor excluded). They talked us into one more climb (a cool down right Igor? – no a 5.9 is not a cool down!) and a swim! The swim, at 8pm, was a perfect ending to an awesome day and as of now the plan is to head back to Rumney in 2 weeks!

this is 'jolt' - just around the fin from dolt